Showing posts with label San Giorgio Maggiore. Show all posts
Showing posts with label San Giorgio Maggiore. Show all posts

Thursday, July 11, 2013

The Bridge of Sighs, Prison and Doge's Palace



We all saw the tall campanile in St. Marks Square as our cruse ship entered Venice. But this photo is not from the ship.  Shirley caught this incredible photo from the bell tower on San Giorgio Maggiore, across the Grand Canal.

That large building with all the arches is Doge's Palace. Look closely on the right side of Doge's and you can see part of the Bridge of Sighs.                                                                                    


It is thru the Doge's Palace that one gains access to the Bridge of Sighs, which is the taller enclosed bridge attached to palace and the prison across the canal.  This picture was taken so early in the morning from the cruise ship that there is not a single soul on the plaza in front or the bridge (Ponte della Paglia).

When you get your ticket for Doge's Palace your passage over the bridge to the prison and back is part of the deal.


This is the famous Bridge of Sighs. There are two separate corridors that run next to each other in the bridge. Look closely at the two windows on the bridge... they are masonry blocks with a geometric pattern. Makes taking photos a bit of a challenge... or you may say an opportunity!


From this opening in the blocks on the Bridge of Sighs we can see the Paglia Bridge along the Grand Canal, busy with tourists today... and across the canal to the little island San Giorgio Maggiore with the inflatable statute of Mark Quinn and the tall campanile . To see the whole story on Quinn's purple lady go to my blog post on June 30... click here.  That campanile is where Shirley took that great first photo in this blog.

The famous name of the Bridge of Sighs dates from the Romantic Period and refers to the sighs of prisoners, who on their way from the courtroom to the cell where they would serve their sentence, took a last look at freedom... catching a glimpse of San Giorgio and the lagoon thru the small windows.


Earlier in the palace I opened a window to get an unobstructed photo of the bell tower and basilica on San Giorgio Maggiore... and got caught by a guard who gave me hell in Italian. But it was worth it. I captured a great shot. Two days later we were on top of that bell tower looking back at the Doge's Palace.


We walked thru what seemed like miles of corridor... and there were prison cells on both sides of the Bridge of Sighs.  It wasn't miles... it just seemed like it since I really needed to find bathroom! That isn't funny.


Narrow hallways, low doors and small cells.  This is not Four Seasons accommodation... in fact these prisoners didn't even get one season!


Not very many cells have any window... let alone this huge one.  Shirley's arm taking a photo helps with the scale.  It was maybe a little over two feet square.


On the other side of the corridor in the bridge we look up the canal... full of activity.  Can you imagine the anticipation of the prisoners coming out.  This may have been their first glimpse of the outside world.


Signs and guards through out the palace constantly reminded us not to take photos... but I took some anyway.  No flash.  We like to take photos of floors.  We loved the pattern of this one.  Glad we weren't doing this design in our late night tile laying caper!


Some of the details in the ceilings were quite spectacular.  And of course there was more art on the walls than my feeble brain could comprehend.


This is called the "Lions Mouth" postbox for anonymous denunciations at Doge's Palace.  The mayor of the city lived in this palace.  The mouth is a mail slot in which people could give the mayor secret denunciations against anyone who concealed favours or did not pay for services rendered.  Now there is a novel idea for a "Suggestion Box."


There were rows of columns, each one with different details and figures on the top.


This upper veranda was absolutely huge.  Shirley was in awe!


Looking out from this deck provided an interesting shot.


I loved the effect of the pattern looking out on the sky and the library across the square.  This four leaf clover pattern is found on several buildings in Venice and no place else in the world... except Las Vegas.


From that Doge's veranda we had a great view of the library and St. Theodore on the western column.


The former patron Saint Theodore was later replaced by Mark.  Rick Steeves said, "I guess stabbing crocodiles in the back isn't classy enough for an upwardly mobile world power."

Criminals were executed by being hung from this column in the hopes that the public could learn its lessons vicariously.


The original Campanile was a lighthouse and stood for ten centuries until it toppled over into the centre of the square in 1902.


It was rebuilt ten years later complete with its golden angel on top, facing into the breeze.  You can ride a lift to the top... but there was not enough time for us to do it.


The population of Venice is about 60,000.  They estimate that every year 25 million visitors come here... that works out to almost 70,000 people a day, assuming they stayed only one day.

Reality is that most people stay an average of 3 or 4 days.  That makes the actual count of visitors on any given day might be more like 250,000.

We were there in high season, which might double the above count.

If we go back for another visit, we would try to go in low season.

"I stood in Venice, on the Bridge of Sighs, 
a palace and a prison on each hand. 
I saw, from out the wave, her structures rise, 
as from the stroke of the enchanter’s wand. 
A thousand years their cloudy wings expand 
around me, and a dying glory smiles 
o’er the far times, when many a subject land 
looked to the Winged Lion’s marble piles, 
where Venice sat in state, throned on her hundred isles!" 

- from Lord Byron’s Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage Sigh.

Sunday, June 30, 2013

'Breathe'

On this holiday we enjoyed seeing Venice from the top deck of a cruise ship three times.

We arrived here at the end of our first cruise from Barcelona.  Then a week later we left here on a cruise thru the Greek islands... and then came back to Venice where we've spent another three days.

The first time, our cruise ship director announced we were approaching Venice so those without balconies could get positions on the top decks to enjoy the spectacular views.... hence not everyone could get front rail locations.

When we saw this church with a huge sculpture in front of it, there was lots of speculation as to what it was.  Later we learned that this little island is called San Giorgio Maggiore and there were some significant art and sculptures on display here.  It was just across from the Piazza San Marco at the entrance to the Giudecca Canal.

Was it a man or a woman?  Why no arms?  We all had a lot more questions than answers until we did some research.

So on Sunday morning Shirley and I took a vaporetto to this island to get a closer look... and find answers to our questions.

A vaporetto is the most used form of transportation here in Venice.  It is like a water bus that can carry from 100 to 150 or more people... and stops along it's route to drop off and pick up people.

This is an 11 metre (35 foot) high inflatable version of the monumental marble work by Mark Quinn called 'Alison Lapper Pregnant' a portrait of a disabled pregnant woman, Alison Lapper.  The base is about 8 feet high and contains the motors and equipment to keep this art inflated.

Can you imagine the challenge of creating this piece of art out of vinyl... kind of like making a hot air balloon. Once one gets close you can see the seams.

The original marble version of this work was installed in London's Trafalgar Square (2005-07).  'Breathe' was the centrepiece of the London's Paralympic Games' opening ceremony 2012... and is now on display here in Venice.

To see photos of the artist with Alison Lapper and the 2005 newspaper story click on this link.

The work seems to describe the journey of an image when it becomes part of cultural discourse: something without boundaries of scale, held up by the breath of those talking about it, a visitor from the virtual world in our minds.

Held in place by blown air, 'Breathe' is one amazing piece of work which showcases the story of Alison Lapper, who, after discovering she was pregnant decided to have her child, despite the difficulties of her physical condition and the prejudices of society.

She eventually gave birth to a healthy boy.  After featuring in the 2012 Paralympics opening ceremony in London, 'Breathe' was universally acknowledged as a monument of female heroism.

Alison Lapper, a friend of Marc Quinn, was born with no arms and shortened legs due to chromosomal condition called Phocomelia. Her mother rejected her and she was brought up in a care home.  Now a recognized artist, she was awarded an MBE in 2003 and featured with her son in the BBC series 'Child of Our Time'.  (MBE is an award for the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire.)

To see Mark Quinn with the original 11-foot marble sculpture that went to Trafalgar Square click here.

In a future blog post we will show more of Mark Quinn's sculptures which were on display on this small island.  Without a doubt this was one of the most inspirational sites we visited in Venice.

"A piece of art is never a finished work.  It answers a question which has been asked, and asks a new question." -Robert Engman