Walnut Canyon National Monument

After seeing all the massive entrance signs for several other National Monuments we have just recently visited, this multi-colour one looks a little underwhelming... like maybe one of the parks staff or volunteers  designed and made it.  Oh, well.

When we looked over the edge of the handrail into Walnut Canyon I wondered why this site? At first glance one would not pick up on all the housing in the walls of the canyon where the Sinagua people lived.

Sinagua means "without water."  These people were experts at conserving water and living in a dry area. They learned how to live on natural formed shelves below the rim of above. On the top there was lots of room to grow corn.

Before you even start to descend down the first flight of stairs they ask you if are capable of going down and back up 240 steps each way... that is about 185 feet elevation change.  Now if you could only go up first, to go down at the end of the hike would be wonderful.

We hadn't descended very far before we started to see where houses were built on shelves around the canyon wall.

After coming down the 240 stairs a path took us around a basically level path... it was like going around the outside of an island in the middle of the canyon.

The first housing ledge we came upon had tools and supplies for rebuilding some rooms.  Their was 7 or 8 feet headroom on most of the shelves.  As you can see they have just rebuilt a couple of rock partitions in this cliff dwelling.

We noticed that some new rocks had been laid out along the sides of our path.  Where did they come from?  And how did that heavy metal tool box in the previous photos get there?

I surmised they might have put tools and supplies in a heavy canvas bag with straps that could be picked up and delivered with a helicopter and a winch cable.

We progressed along the path from one cliff dwelling to the next... not realizing at the time we would be going past about 25 rooms on this one island pathway.

Shirley pauses on a rock seat along the path... a lovely place to catch your breath and drink in the scenery.  Behind here are banana yucca plants.

Some of the cliff dwellings had been totally refurnished.

We are told they kept the doors to the rooms small so that they could hang a rug or skin over the door to keep out the wind and weather.

The black hole above the door was for smoke exhaust on those times a fire was needed for warmth or cooking.  Notice the wooden lintel above the door.

Shirley poses in the unfinished doorway of one of the rooms.

With the help of flash photography I captured the interior of this room.  The black on the back wall and ceiling was no doubt caused by the fire they would just build on the floor.  It is easy to tell the which walls were recently re-constructed.

We visited briefly with this couple from Minnesota and he expressed how he was blown away by what we had learned on this 45 minute walk around these cliff dwellers homes.  It was kind of like a spiritual experience.

We agreed.  This was a special place and we were walking around where people had lived and loved  seven or eight hundred years ago.

Several interesting rocks and trees caught my attention on this hike.  In the bottom of this canyon are Black Walnut trees, which provided the inspiration for the name Walnut Canyon.  Those trees also provided some good walnuts which no doubt were enjoyed by these original residents.

The walk around the island path brought us back to where the stairs we came down on will now take us back to the top.

As we were coming out more people were coming in.  By the time we got to the top we were ready for a refreshing drink and little sit down time.  It was a most amazing and surprising little hike.

Once back in the Visitor centre I purchased a trail guide.  It basically had the same illustrations and explanations we saw in plaques along the trail.  The Sinagua people lived here over 800 years ago and left over 80 cliff dwellings in this canyon.

This cut-away view offers a glimpse of various functions.  Not all the rooms were used for living.  Archeologists found some rooms with lots of knives, sandals, stone shaped cylinders and tools for making pottery and crafting arrow shafts.

Residents could have stored a 100-day water supply to carry them thru the hot dry summer when the creek ran dry.  Water is essential to any community and life revolved around this water source.

Today this creek in the bottom of the canyon is mostly dry.  In 1904 water upstream was impounded for use by the city of Flagstaff.

Illustrations by Michael Hampshire

Tuzigoot National Monument... near Flagstaff, Az.

This morning we were the first to show up at this National Monument... like 8:05 AM.

Where did they get this name from?  Apparently Tuzigoot means "crooked water" in Apache... which refers to the winding Verde River nearby.  There is lots of other cool information on this Wikipedia site.

In the Visitors Centre I saw this poster on the wall... and I wanted to know where this photo taken from... and how could I get one like it?  What a great photo!

The attendant told me that the mayor of Clarkdale, Doug Von Gausig, took that photo from his residence on the hill across the Verde River.  Since it was private property, it was unlikely we would be able to get a photo just like that one.  You can see by the colour of the sunlight that this shot was taken early after sunrise.

So, I asked if there might be another place I might be able to get a long shot of these ruins?  She told me that we might get it if we went to the Dead Horse State Park... which we did after.  My shot is not nearly as dramatic.  The sun was higher and not as yellow... but it does give one a good idea of the scope and magnitude of this ancient 110-room pueblo apparently built in the late 1,300's by the Sinagua people.

At first I was blown away at the quality of these ruins... all done with stone and mortar that had lasted around 600 years.  That is Shirley in the red top in the distance.

And then we saw where workmen had left their tools... three heavy hammers with chisels, etc.

They had excellent plaques around the site telling about the history and the people.  On this plaque they talk about how over time the original mortar eroded, causing the roofs and walls to collapse.  rubble filled the rooms burying and protecting lower wall sections and room floors, including features like hearths and post holes from timbers supporting the roofs.  When archaeologists removed the debris they made every effort to reconstruct the rooms using modern protective measures, including cementing walls...

adding drains to keep water from standing in the rooms, and covering the floor features with dirt.

So bottom line, this place has been totally rebuilt over the years using best efforts to capture the feeling of the original dwellings.

It is a phenomenal archeological site... and as one wanders around this place today you cannot help but think of how awesome it must have been to live in this castle on a hill top, overlooking the Verde River below.  Might this have been looked upon as a "Marriott Residence Inn" or a "Hyatt Regency" in it's day?

There were numerous tools for food preparation.  The trough like "Cusinart" is called mano and metate... and it was used for grinding corn.  The mortar and pestle was used for wheat and grains.  Throughout this site we saw a plentiful variety of these tools.

Shirley and I went thru the room inside this upper most section of the ruins.  This may have been where the chief lived... kind of like the "presidential suite!"  I think if I lived here I would have made sure it had some windows to enjoy the view from this prominent location.

Inside central posts supported a nearly flat roof.  Using flash photography we were able to capture the feeling inside this windowless dark place.

The roof detail shows using beams to support cross members, which in turn carried smaller sticks on which mortar or cement might have been used for a roof top patio or lookout.

From this pinnacle on the property one can see in every direction... an excellent place to early spot any attacking enemies.  Today we look across the river at the mayor of Clarkdale's home on the ridge.

Or at the Blazin M Ranch to the south-east. Check out their link for fun and fixin's.  This also would be a great spot to take an early morning photo of Tuzigoot.

Looking to the west in the 1940's this large field was a tailings pond for copper mining...

photo by Shirley

and further west on the hillside is evidence of current mining activity.

photo by Shirley

You almost have to be here to get a feeling of the magnitude and scale of this pueblo.  110 rooms is a huge development.

People come here from all over the United States...

And Australia and Europe.  In fact, after we left this place and stopped at the Tourist Information in Cottonwood, we ran into a couple visiting here from Goerlitz, Germany.  You have to see Shirley's post for today for all the amazing details.

Today men have built "monuments" all over the United States.  Some for high and noble purposes... and others for selfish reasons.

"New York City is a great monument to the power of money and greed... a race for rent." -Frank Lloyd Wright

Montezuma's Castle

We set no record in getting up early, packing the car and heading back to Canada this morning.  Left Rancho Del Lago around 8:45 AM.  Everyone asked us how long it takes to get back to Canada.

It really depends on how how often you stop and how much fooling around one does. Every time we go speeding down the highway we say, "Wouldn't it be nice to stop and take in some of the sights along the way? To drive to Calgary is about 28-30 hours... but we will spread it out over 5-6 days.

This trip will not be like any other in recent times.  Usually we go flat out... like being in a car race... or an airplane!  We often can do 1,100-1,200 km. per day, trading off drivers.  Not this time.

This time we are not measuring how far we go each day... rather it is how much we can see, how many photos we take and how many new adventures we experience.  Shirley packed a picnic lunch and we spent an hour enjoying it at a viewpoint rest stop overlooking Horsethief Canyon... and very soon after we were at Monty's Castle.

How did the original owners get access to their home in the cliffs?

They used ladders.  In fact up until about 1960 they allowed tourists to climb up the ladders and go inside the rooms built in the cliffs!  How scary would that be?

The Verde River provided a wonderful water supply in this high desert community. It also made irrigation possible for growing corn and various crops to provide for their needs.

Closer to the valley floor were several foundations where more multi-family residential units once stood. This community dates back to around 1300 AD.

This mortar was used with a pestle to make corn meal and such.  How many bushels of corn might have been ground on this stone over the centuries?

This diorama had a continuous recorded message to take you thru what people were doing on each of the five levels in this castle.

So that we can see the people in each of the rooms they built this model leaving off the outside wall.  It made the empty rooms in the castle come to life.

It is easy to see the river clay mud cracking on the walls... and to keep these homes maintained was a continual task that these indians had to do every few years.

In addition to the deluxe accommodations there were numerous caves in these south-facing cliffs.

Teddy Roosevelt established this property as a National Monument in 1906 with the signing of the American Antiquities Act.  What an amazing site to visit.  Just think, over 600 years ago these indian tribes developed one of the first multi-family condominium developments in history... and with passive solar heating and an awesome view!

Not far to the north is Monty's Well.

This is one amazing well... over 55 feet deep this spring keeps boiling up fresh water and sand 24 hours a day.

Around the top rim there are a few more cliff dwellings.  You can't beat this waterfront location!

The water runs out the reservoir into an irrigation type ditch.  This sweet little boy is about to get his photo taken by his mother.

I could not resist taking his photo at the same time.

Tall trees grow between the irrigation ditch and the rock wall.

The Verde River is very slow moving here... and the reflection was amazing.

What a great piece of rock work on these steps.  I love to see real natural stone well used.  Today in the construction industry the shift is to man made stone products.

To get Shirley's perspective on this day's adventures click here and check out her blog.

The Crested Saguaro Find

Until yesterday the only Crested Saguaro I had ever seen was in a book or on a website.

We were on our way to church in Green Valley when I spotted this beauty on the south side of Sahuarita Road between Houghton Road and Green Valley.  Not wanting to be late for church, I told Shirley we could stop to get some photos on the way home.

I had to navigate my way thru a four-strand, barb wire fence to get close enough to capture this shot... but it was well worth it!

How rare is the crested or cristate saguaro?  They say this phenomena happens about one in ten thousand times... and no one knows for sure what causes it to happen.  Joe Orman has a website with hundreds of crested saguaros that he has found in Arizona.

Having looked at Joe's website, it was soon apparent that not all crested saguaros are created equal... every one is different... and in my humble opinion this specimen I found yesterday is truly one of the more spectacular.

For example, you can quickly see that this second crested saguaro is not as beautiful as the one above, right?  It still is a crested saguaro, but this guy started another arm right out of the side near the top... and this breaks up the symmetry.

So, yesterday was a remarkable day for me... to find not just one... but two crested saguaros within a couple of miles of each other. And both were spotted from a moving car while driving down Sahuarita Road at 60 miles per hour.  What are the chances?

Have you seen one of these beauties in nature?  Where did you see it?

I have a book with a full page photo of a real beauty taken on the University of Arizona campus here in Tucson.

"It boggles my mind that someone can see life breathed into a baby, watch the grass die and then come to life again, see leaves fall and watch the rebirth of a tree, or gaze on any of the majestic splendour that is this earth and not be overpowered by the presence of an Almighty God!" -Bill McCartney, American football coach at the University of Colorado, and President of Promise Keepers, b.1940